![]() The key word here is “change.” Sometimes people remove the fuel/water separator, invert it to pour the water out, and then re-use it. With ethanol woes (hopefully) put to rest, you’ll also need to change your engine’s fuel filters and any fuel/water separators in the system. After putting in the additive, make sure to run the engines so treated fuel makes its way through the entire system.Long story short, when you go to fire up your boat next spring, it will have water-saturated fuel and you’ll have big problems. Winterizing with ethanol blended fuel in your tanks can be disastrous otherwise, as the fuel can undergo phase separation.First and most important: dose the fuel tanks with a quality fuel-stabilizing additive.No matter what sort of boat you have, all gasoline fuel systems will need some individual attention. As with other engines: inboards also need a dose of fogging before a winter lay-up, this is the ideal time for an oil change, and a visual inspection should be made to identify any pieces or parts that may be in need to replacement.Be sure to bring the engine up to operating temperature before running antifreeze through, because otherwise the thermostat will block the flow to some cooling passages until the engine is up to operating temperature.Then you’ll want to submerge the end of the hose in a bucket of (environmentally safe) antifreeze and run the engine until the antifreeze comes out the exhaust ports.In this case, in order to run antifreeze through the system you’ll need to close the intake seacock and remove the intake hose from it. In some cases, however, inboard boats remain in the water for the winter.The engine can be drained by opening petcocks or removing plugs, or you can run antifreeze through the system (which is usually the preferred method). Inboards require a treatment similar to that of stern-drives, though you can eliminate the drive system from the equation. One final tip: now’s the best time to change your lower unit and/or powerhead oil, visually inspect it to be sure there hasn’t been any water intrusion, and put the boat to bed with fresh fluids for the winter. If you live in an area where you can run the engine every few weeks (long enough to allow it to reach normal operating temperature), additional winterization steps usually aren’t necessary. It’s not low temperatures that cause issues with outboards, but long periods of inaction. Many people feel that the very best way to winterize an outboard is simply to use it, and they have a point. Each manufacturer’s method is a bit different (and sometimes different models in their line require different steps) so this is the time to consult your owner’s manual.And some other modern outboards control the process electronically-you simply navigate to a “winterize” mode in the control system, and press the button. Some manufacturers offer products that can be mixed into a remote fuel can of gasoline, and run through the engine to give it a layer of protection.Most modern outboards, however, are “fogged” via a much easier process. Historically, with carbureted outboards and old-tech two-strokes this meant running fogging oil through the engine.Aside from eliminating H2O from the equation, you’ll want to give the engine’s internals some protection from corrosion as it sits.Covering it is a good idea, but make sure there’s enough ventilation that condensation doesn’t form. So lesson number-one is to tilt the engine down all the way, and leave it there. ![]() Outboard engines are designed to drain all the water from their cooling systems completely, when tilted in the down position. So as you consider all of these tasks, remember that your main goal is to keep out water and moisture to the greatest extent possible.īe sure to concentrate on these systems during the winterization process: ![]() Freeze-damage is the biggest potential problem, but water in and on your boat can also promote winter-time mold and mildew growth, and corrosion. Ironically, it’s water that poses the most danger to your boat during the off-season.
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